Fire and Ice: Saunas, Swimming and Skiing in Finland & Estonia
Rhonda Millikin celebrates a successful Finlandia-Hiihto!
Written by Lumi guest Rhonda Millikin
Races #8 & #9 done & dusted ... one to go.
So many things can derail you. Sickness, an injury, sleeping in, -19°C wind chills, 12,000 participants, light but breakable equipment, or… a border guard. On the way to Finland to join Lumi’s Finlandia & Tartu trip this past winter, Munich airport security pulled me aside for “Packing something.” The female guard patted me down, then rolled her eyes at the accusing giant male guard. “It’s her biceps!” Who says you can’t build muscle after 50?
So, other than weight training, what are the things that prepare you for a marathon ski in the bitter cold hills of Lahti, Finland and Tartu, Estonia?
From Helsinki to Lahti
There was plenty of fresh snow to go along with the chilly temperatures in Lahti
The winter wonderland of Finland is a country of clean lines and bright snow. I landed in Helsinki and spent two nights in the city on my own to adjust to the 10-hour time change. Over a cappuccino and bowl of hot oatmeal on my first morning, I planned to visit several local historical icons and many artisan shops downtown.
I bravely headed out, only to turn around after 1⁄2 block. Back in my room I put on down pants, a second down coat, balaclava, wool socks and mitts. Turns out it was -20°C before the wind chill! After heading back out, I met a local author, Hannele Tòrrònen, and enjoyed the city – much better prepared this time. A highlight of my time in Helsinki was the delicious salmon soup I found on the 5th floor of Kamppi shopping centre.
At the start of my Lumi trip in Helsinki, I joined the trip leaders and a couple dozen other cross-country ski enthusiasts. We took a bus to Lahti for the Finlandia-Hiihto ski marathon the next day. I roomed solo to prevent the need for a “snore stick.” Our hotel in Lahti was comfortable and a refuge from the bitter cold after exploring the city, not to mention within walking distance to the race.
Racing Through Finland & EstoniA
I had three goals for the Finlandia. #1: finish, and not hurt myself in the process; #2: finish under 10 km/hr; and #3: place in my age group. Thanks to Lumi’s talented wax technician, as well as knowing my sister and neighbour back home in Whistler were up at 3:00 AM watching my GPS track advance across the course, I met all three. My prize for placing in my age group included three loaves of bread and granola. Finlanders are practical people.
“Lumi’s wax technician in Finland was a genius. They were the best skis I’ve had and I swear that’s why I placed first in my age group. Winning gold in Finland and then bronze in Estonia was great. Having the trip leaders celebrate with me at the finish line was so sweet!”
Traditional Finnish saunas and cold plunges afterwards were a big highlight, as was visiting the Peltonen factory. I skied my first Worldloppet on Peltonen skis in 1991 in Norway, which made the visit extra special.
Ready for a sauna in Finland!
Learning how skis are made at the Peltonen factory.
Following our time in Lahti, we took a ferry across the Baltic Sea from Helsinki to the medieval port of Tallinn, Estonia’s capital. From there we took a bus from Tallinn to Tartu, stopping at the Song Festival grounds along the way. Music is Estonia’s foundation. In 1988 their Singing Revolution gained them independence from Russia without violence. Estonians are overcomers – they like challenges & are quick to laugh. If they don’t seem friendly, it’s that they don’t make small talk. Their talk has a purpose, and when they discovered I was Canadian, they had much warmth to share.
Exploring the Song Festival grounds in Tallinn, Estonia
Exploring Tartu
While in Tartu, our local trip leader Mihkel shared with us his knowledge of the city on an informative walking tour. Did you know Skype was an Estonian invention? The science-based University of Tartu was founded in 1632 and has been an important driver of Estonia’s culture for centuries. During our time in the city we also got to meet the Mayor of Tartu, attended a concert in a local Cathedral with 35 singers and young actors and visited Estonia’s Olympic museum.
The skiing in Estonia was as cold as it was in Finland, but this time we were better prepared when the Tartu ski marathon got underway. This was my ninth Worldloppet event and it was fun to spend it with new and old friends, including from Lumi’s Iceland Fossavatn and Marcialonga & König Ludwig Lauf trips that I’d traveled on previously.
A Final Stay in Tallinn
Rhonda explores the glacially carved terrain of Iceland on Lumi’s Fossavatn trip
Following my Lumi trip, I spent two extra nights in Tallinn at the five-star boutique Schlössle Hotel in the city’s Old Town. The hotel features hand-hewn beams and stone masonry from the 13th and 14th centuries, a deep bathtub and a sauna for individual bookings. While in Tallinn I also toured the city’s former KGB listening post on the 23rd floor of Hotel Viru, visited the oldest Town Hall in northern Europe (1404), and had a final delicious meal of herring and black bread from a local grocery in Tallinn – wrapping up my memorable trip to Finland & Estonia.
Rhonda celebrates with Trip Leader Elisabeth after completing the Marcialonga in 2025 on Lumi’s Marcialonga & König Ludwig Lauf trip
Congrats to Rhonda on completing her 8th and 9th Worldloppet events! We’re looking forward to her completing her 10th Worldloppet and earning her Worldloppet Master accolades.
Join Lumi in Finland & Estonia
Do you want to experience the unique cultures of Finland and Estonia? There is still limited space available on Lumi’s Finlandia & Tartu trip next winter. Earn two stamps in your Worldloppet passport while exploring the trails around Lahti and Tartu with your group and expert, local trip leaders. Reach out to reservations@lumiexperiences.com by May 31 to receive a detailed trip itinerary and to save $200/person off the trip. We look forward to hearing from you!
See you on the trail,
Garrott Kuzzy
garrott@lumiexperiences.com
Founder, Lumi Experiences